hi all. i know there are some clutch guys out there. last year i put a ODS clutch kit in my f6 . i was turning 8100 which i know is way to high. now im turning 7700 to 7800 . it is definitly better but i seemed to lose a little snap at the bottom. now if i move the spring in the secondary one hole does that move my rpm up 100 ? do i get better lower end. will i lose the top end speed. or am i right were im supose to be? teach me o wise ones!!!!

GRASSHEAD is the clutch MAN !!!

Well the key is to try to get the sled to run at peak HP at wide open. So let's say your sled was running at 8100rpm and you make max power at 7700rpm what you would do and looks like you did would add weight to the primary clutch that would load your motor down and get you in the RPM you need to be at. Most racers or tuner try to get the primary clutch tuned in for engagement and the RPM range the sled should run at once that is dailed in you shouldn't have to mess with it unless you do other motor work that would change HP ranges.
The secondary you can fine turn RPM with setting the spring in the differant hole either adding or subtracting RPM, But this will also effect the back shift and how fast the clutch will open. Now let's get to the Helix the higher the first # is will open the clutch faster but will give you less belt pressure the smaller the angle will slow the shift down and give you more belt pressure. The second # on the helix can also set RPM the smaller the # = more RPM the larger #= less RPM. so a 60/40 would open faster and lower RPM and give less belt pressure then a lets say 56/38.
There is alot to learn in clutching and I'm allways learning more it's like a black art there are lot's of ways to get to one outcome. Different people have different ways of doing things and I DON'T claim to be the best . I know Pickle is also very good at clutching and it's nice to bounce idea's of each other. hope this help

Chris

yes, you finally admit it. You guys bounce off each other. lol

Do you want to be in the middle

It's just nice to see you finally come out of the closet.

can't you just turn the clickers like a Ski-Doo Only takes a minute and you are up and going all adjusted. Follow the leader.

I have to admit that Ski-Doo can be hard on belts, Ben barely got 6000 miles out of his and mine is half worn out and I have 4500 on it. Well they all have flaws.

Clickers only change RPM if your sled is stock there no need to play with those. It's a nice setup the TRA clutchs work good I'll be getting plenty of time on those next year OPPS I shouldn't have said that LOL.

I got 6k out of my belt

Yes, and 20k miles out of your sled. But who cares, noone wants to ride a sled like yours, may as well take a HOnda accord down the trails.

isn't this the sled that kick you arse ?

ok should i try moving the spirng in the secondary and see how it goes or start somewhere else

What helix angle are you running? I would try going up in the first # that would open up your clutch faster,but if you go to steep you'll suck the belt and the sled will bog. I have alot of different helix's so let me know what's in there and I can see what I have for you to try no need to buy it we'll try a few things first. I would keep the spring the same if your in your RPM range I would play with the helix in most cases in a trail sled you'll want a stiff secondary spring so you have fast back shift witch is how fast the clutch will drive the belt back to the top so you can get on the gas again. If you have poor back shift if you let off the gas quik and get on again the belt is still sitting low and you'll bog kinda like starting off in 3rd gear and not 1st on a bike.

I remember when Ben's belt came apart in Maine that was funny, looked like a a rats nest coming out of all of the vents. Remember him jumping up trying to figure out what it was?

Grasshead, you just made a new best friend with Sal1010- He loves to modify stuff. We are best of friends, but completely different in that respect. I leave everything stock normally. He tinkers with everything. You met Sal1010 one night in your garage, we came over the night of the big race.

I remember. Did I mention that I setup a 04 F6 for grassdrags in 04-05 that won a North East Grass Drag point championship in the amature class. And isn't that the sled sal has?

Yes it is

Chris I might need to talk to you we have a zr900 with pipes and head kit from black magic but cant get the clutching back the way it was when we put it together sled has been on the trailer for 3 years because it eats belts it was trail ridable when we first put it together just a little finicky it does us no good on the trailer

i have the ODS clutch kit. not shure which angle it is. ill check the sled . will that give me the low end snap back?
its not like its bad the way it is now . from what i remember anway. pulls my arms off middle up. i need to get out there and see how it feels. ill have to let you take it for a rip and see what you think.
jay is right i do love modifying stuff. just want to gett all i can out of her until i can afford a new cfr 800 ho. thanks for the info.

Be glad to take a look. Did you take the motor out of the sled at all? if so if it's not in straight you can roll the belt over the primary I have the tools to make sure it's in straight. The other thing would be is your slipping your belt causing alot of heat and the belt will break. You can read the belt befor it breaks to see if the cords are comming apart on the sides that means your slipping. Should be no problem getting it to run right. Like I've said before I'm NO expert in clutching but I enjoy working on them and glad to give a hand.

It's hard to get it all. The ODS clutch kits are very good and I have a in with Dan. to get more down low you take away from the top and the other way around it's trying to find something to work good on the trail. A race sled is different and that could be a whole page in it's self. If you want more snap there are a few ways to get it but would hurt you also in differnt snow conditions. Yes going to a steeper helix would open your clutch up faster but may hurt you on the lake or hardpack because you would suck the belt the other thing you could do is raise your engagement but once again it's give and take you don't want a high engangement in deep snow you'll just trench. That's why in raceing and pickle can back me up on this you have to clutch for the track either it's hard or soft but for trail there are to many differences. Once it snows come over and we can try some stuff I have boxes if springs,helix's and weights.

Before you go nuts make sure you check all your bushings first. A bad secondary bushing will cause the same issue that you are having. Best bet call ODS and tell them whats going on. I'm sure they've run into this with other kits. They are usually very good kits.
Have you checked you power valves? Dirty or miss adjusted valves will cause this same problem.

Look at the small stuff because it all has to work together to create one efficient unit.

Good point make sure there is no damage clutch parts. I know pickle also knows alot about clutching and we borrow thing from each other all the time. I think if we both tag teamed a sled it would be dailed in

The only thing I'm thing I'm tag teaming with you is a hot blond!

i checked my power vales last year and they were clean. i plan on checking them this year as well.
as far as the bushing they all looked fine when i put the kit in. i will check again to be sure.
thanks again for all the info. i learned alot already . we can fine tune it when the snow flies.
i cant wait to try the new skis as well

the Razors you just bought do look awsome. I like how wide and sturdy they look, and the cornering looks like it will be way better. I checked my skis last night, and there are no turning edges on the outside. They are about the same width though.

What the heck is BLOND ?? Is that a Winchendon thing